2018 nissan titan xd diesel warranty

A few things for the devs that l personally would love to see in Forza 5

2023.05.30 02:21 Exe_lumbago_boii A few things for the devs that l personally would love to see in Forza 5

The only place l could imagine asking something like this where the devs might see this, is here. But in forza, the main cars that there are the supercars, sports cars, and the really offroad cars. The only pickups in the game are the really big Ford f-450, the also really big Hennesy Velociraptor, the Nissan Titan, and the many ford raptors. Those are all pretty nice, but they're also really modern. Me personally, l prefer older pickup trucks. Thats just me, and l bet there's a decent amount of people who could somewhat agree.
Pickup trucks like the 2001 ford f-250, the 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500, and the 1999 Dodge ram 2500. Those are some of the specifics that are pretty perfect. There are some other older pickups that Ford and Dodge made that are really nice. These are just some that could possibly go in the game. With mods that most people have liked. Like lifts, or spacers (I know those are already in the game), and for the people who like them (not me), those deep-dish rims.
And maybe this last one is a little bit much, but being able to put diesel engines in all of these and have the ability to as most people call it, Roll coal.
These are just things that i think are cool and would like to know if they are possible.
Because l love forza
submitted by Exe_lumbago_boii to forza [link] [comments]

2023.05.28 21:12 Invictus1876 Recommendations Needed

I'm sure this is asked here all the time by newbies like myself. My wife and I are starting to research options for our first time purchase and I'm not really sure where to begin in this massive world of what seems to be "Every trailer has issues, good luck" type of purchases.
It seems everyone has their own opinions on Stick & Tin vs. Fiberglass, slides vs. no slides, etc. and we're looking for some help narrowing down our search.
My tow vehicle is a 2017 Nissan Titan XD w/ the 5.6L V8 Gasoline engine. From the calculations I've made, it seems like I can easily tow anything ~7500lbs and under (After accounting for a 2000lb gap from the real max of about ~9500lbs).
Tow vehicle length = ~20'
Max Trailer length = 30' (Want to stay under 50' combined for campsite limitations)
Bunkhouse preferred for daughter to have her own space and space to bring a friend when wanted
Outdoor kitchen
Master bedroom must have standalone room w/ wall & door between general living area and master bedroom.
Some of the research I've done seems to point us to Forest River as being a fairly respectable "entry-level" option? Particularly the Grey Wolf & Surveyor lines?
submitted by Invictus1876 to traveltrailers [link] [comments]

2023.05.28 18:39 Uraniu What about Citroën C4X?

Hey there,
I'm currently driving a 2018 Suzuki Ignis and was thinking of upgrading to something more comfortable and spacious. I'm in the EU by the way.
I was originally looking at a Suzuki S-Cross, then at a Toyota Yaris Cross and finally found this Citroën C4X that I fell in love with right away. I talked to my family about this idea and they said Citroën is not a reliable brand and I should stick with Toyota instead, or even a Renault. I like the Renault Arkana too, but something feels a bit off about it
I know they had this reputation of being unreliable in the past, but in the last decade it feels like all brands can be quite reliable (Citroën offers up to 6 years extended warranty if you have the cash) as long as you take care of them.
The only peeve I have with it is that there's no hybrid version. It's either an 8-speed automatic petrol or full electric (I'm not interested in the diesel one). The electric version has a relatively low capacity (~400km) and I often have trips of more than 600km at a time, if I keep the AC on or if it's cold I might need to charge it twice and electric infrastructure ain't that great in my country.
I'm looking at the 30000€ range or thereabouts (±3000), but if there's a good hybrid alternative I can go up to 35 or even 40 for a full electric as long as it has really good range (500 or more km). I like this car because of the major comfort upgrade and incredible boot space, and I won't like, I'm a sucker for technology (wireless charging, Apple Carplay, I'm looking at the Hifi system too that has a subwoofer, cruise control etc).
Am I missing anything major in terms of alternatives/reliability here? I really like this form factor and it looks premium for the price range.
submitted by Uraniu to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]

2023.05.26 21:53 Itwasuntilitwasnt Looking at a 2018 Titan xd

Anything I should be looking for 59000 km
submitted by Itwasuntilitwasnt to NissanTitan [link] [comments]

2023.05.26 07:04 COG92 Advice on purchase 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara

Advice on purchase 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
Hello. I am new to the Jeep world, but have always been interested in them. I recently decided to start looking and came across this one that I really like. I wanted to get some advice on whether this was a good deal or if there is anything else I should consider before moving forward with this particular purchase. Any input is greatly appreciated!
2018 JEEP WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED SAHARA
83,000 miles
Exterior Color: Gobi Clear–Coat Exterior Paint
Interior: Black Leather Seats w/Diesel Gray Accent Stitching
Engine: 3.6–Liter V6
Engine Transmission: 5–Speed Automatic Transmission
Freedom Top® 3–Piece Hard Top
Asking: $29,500 with free lifetime powertrain warranty
https://preview.redd.it/bo59060jj52b1.png?width=700&format=png&auto=webp&s=4b2c75e52d634fd99af6592521a44b4dae142c43
https://preview.redd.it/ycrns80jj52b1.png?width=389&format=png&auto=webp&s=d8ffef3f49ca9578b5464c6f55bc2b8ab1b8b0ce
https://preview.redd.it/pbxxv70jj52b1.png?width=926&format=png&auto=webp&s=587bf0868ca31b84c5b76db6df0045af056505ee
submitted by COG92 to JeepWrangler [link] [comments]

2023.05.25 16:31 letsavenge [FH5] Summer Information Thread - Series 21

Hello everyone! It's time to Explore the Horizon, Series 21 of the Festival Playlist. Hope you all are having a great week!  
A ??? is available for completing the Super7 this week.  

Forzathon Shop

The Forzathon Shop ends on Jun 1st, 2023 @ 14:29 (UTC).  

Festival Playlist Rewards

Hot Wheels Events - 7 Points

Exclusive to Hot Wheels Owners; the respective Academy Rank must be unlocked. Not Required for Season Rewards, Series Completion, or the Min, Meet Max Achievement.

Rally Adventure Events - 7 Points

Exclusive to Rally Adventure Owners; required for you to be Horizon Badlands Champion. Not Required for Season Rewards, Series Completion, or the Min, Meet Max Achievement.

Forzathon Weekly Challenge - 5 Points

Earn 80FP for completing the weekly challenge, double if you own La Casa Solariega. Must be done in sequence to count.

Forzathon Daily Challenges - 1 Point Each, 7 Points Total

Each challenge is open for 7 Days from 2:30PM UTC* of the start day. Earn 10FP per Challenge, double if you own La Casa Solariega.

Seasonal Events - 34 Points Total

The reward listed for Seasonal Championship events requires you to place 1st against at or above the Highly Skilled Drivatar difficulty setting; the Trial requires Unbeatable difficulty and is accessible after entering the Hall of Fame.  

Challenges - 8 Points Total

Monthly Events - 2 Points per Season (8 Points per Series)

Explore The Horizon With Enhanced Photo Mode And Pathfinder Challenges  
FH5 Release Notes: May 23rd, 2023  
submitted by letsavenge to forza [link] [comments]

2023.05.25 16:09 BeefosaurusRekt Freightliner Sprinter 2500 asking $41,000 - Description in comments

Freightliner Sprinter 2500 asking $41,000 - Description in comments
TECHNICAL SPECS:
  • 2008 Freightliner Sprinter 2500
  • 3.0L 6F Diesel, RWD
  • 225,759 miles
  • 170" Wheelbase
NO ACCIDENTS! NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS!
VAN STORY:
My wife and I purchased this van in the summer of 2022 and spent 6 months driving around North America with our dog. With us it has been through roughly 30 states and 3 provinces and seen some of the most beautiful scenery, parked in the coolest downtowns, and boondocked in the most wild and remote places. Before us it was also a van life van and the previous owner spent two years traveling around the states and living off grid!
We love this van and had intended on being it's forever owners but I had a sudden career change and it was simpler for my wife and I to settle near my family and plant for a while. We plan to purchase a home and are selling to help fund that goal.
The build out was done by a combo of the previous owner and licensed plumbers/electricians/carpenters. Anything that wasn't a simple build was done by the licensed professional which includes all gas line work for the stove/oven, solar install, lighting, diesel heater install, etc.
This van was very comfortable for my wife and I and our poodle and while it's obviously a small space it is very well laid out and practical. Nothing is wasted. Our favorite parts are the spacious storage which includes a closet and the cute little dinette! We ate here for most meals unless it was really nice outside and we wanted to enjoy the weather. Also, I'm 6ft and being able to stand inside is a luxury I'm glad I didn't have to do without.
The van also has ample room in the back for supplies, toys, tools, etc. I stored multiple tool kits, a blow up kayak, camp stoves and chairs, tons of stuff for our dog, a jackery, and a whole slew of other things with room to spare.
RECENT REPAIRS/ WORK:
  • When we purchased this van it needed the brake line repaired. The temporary repair didn't make me feel very comfortable in Colorado mountains so I had a shop in FT Collins custom build a brand new set of brake lines for it in September.
  • It also had an engine light on, which was coding for a glow plug problem. I had a hard time finding the actual root of the problem as the light still remained on after replacing all 6 glow plugs. In March I had a Mercedes shop replace the glow plug module itself and all 6 plugs again and now the van has no check engine light and no codes.
  • The only warning light still showing right now is when the headlights are turned on. This light indicates a bulb needs to be changed. I have changed both bulbs and the light will not turn off. I'm not sure if there is a reset I'm missing but the bulbs have been changed. The indicator light doesn't show until you turn on the headlights.
MORE WORK DONE:
  • transmission replaced under warranty at 100k
  • new turbo (2018)
  • DPF Delete (2018)
  • Alternator replaced 4k miles ago
  • Filters replaced 5k miles ago
  • fluids topped off recently
  • oil recently changed
  • new rear tires 20k ago (front tires still have plenty of life but were installed in 2020)
I have hard copy records for lots of maintenance before me and all maintenance records since I bought it.
Okay so now to the good stuff about the build!
ELECTRICAL/SOLAR:
  • Three 100W solar panels, Renogy 300W 12 volt monocrystalline solar RV kit w/ Renogy Adventurer controller
  • Battery I believe is 250+ Ah marine battery. The previous owner said it came recommended with her solar kit and the pros installed it. I have included a picture of the serial number in the photos. It powers the interior lights, outlets, roof fan, diesel heater, and fridge and in our 6 months of driving and some weeks of terrible weather where we stayed inside all day it never fell below the normal use threshold
  • Fan-Tastic 3 speed manual crank RV Fan 1200 series
  • Diesel Webasto Bunk Heater
  • Pioneer AVH2230NEX Radio
  • Garmin GPS RV model w/ back up camera (back up camera is Bluetooth to Garmin GPS so doesn't show on built in van display)
OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT:
  • Two motion window camper style windows and screens
  • ARB 4x4 retractable awning (ARB4401A)
  • Roof rack
  • Grill guard
  • large outdoor rug
  • Coleman 2 burner camp stove
KITCHEN:
  • ARB portable fridge/freezer 50qt Electric 12V/110V
  • Three burner Wedgewood Vision propane oven/stove combo (this thing is amazing to have in a van! We didn't have to miss out on homemade pizza!)
  • Sink, 12v water pump w/ interchangeable 5 gal tanks for fresh/gray water
  • Custom Tile mosaic
  • Stained wood countertops
  • Dinette table
  • Lots of kitchen storage!
  • A literal banana hammock (I really should be charging a premium to include this lol)
LIVING:
  • Dresser for clothes
  • Closet with mirror
  • Storage in dinette chair bases
  • Curtains and pull down blinds
  • Overhead LED lighting
  • Cheap fairy lights down the interior side of the van. Easily replaced or removed
  • Luxury vinyl plank flooring
BEDROOM:
  • Horizontal custom queen mattress 6" gel memory foam 72x60
(I'm 6ft and my wife is 5'3. I imagine any taller than me and you would have to turn diagonal a bit so this may not work for two over 6ft people. Could be retrofitted though as there is room to remove some wall.)
  • Outlet near bed
  • Diesel heater controls near bed
  • 2 storage cabinets above bed
  • Curtains and pulldown blinds
  • Pull out drawer underneath bed
BATHROOM:
  • Thetford Porta Potti Curve 550e cassette toilet
This toilet is on a slide out panel. We never used it and the previous owner assured me it was only used on rare occasions for midnight #1 emergencies in cities. It is a simple toilet with a tank that can be removed for dumping. You fill the reservoir with water, dump in some chemicals, and you're good to go.
It could be replaced with a composting toilet if you desired but for us it was not necessary as we spent most of our time near toilets or so far out in the woods that the wilderness was a better choice.
  • storage behind/beside the toilet to store toilet paper, wipes, cleaning supplies, etc.
CAB AREA:
  • Custom sun shields
  • Custom Covercraft seat covers (these were made for a different model Sprinter so they do not fit the sides perfectly. They are snug and work well but are not a perfect fit.)
  • built in Apple lightning plugin for phone connection (radio is Bluetooth but this is more stable and charges)
KNOWN PROBLEMS:
  • Passenger mirror is cracked (can send photo). Still usable and can be adjusted. It never bothered me in 6 months of driving.
  • Roof fan crank knob is missing. I twisted a screw into the threads and simply use a screwdriver to turn it. Fan works great!
  • water pump has a pin prick leak. It's honestly barely enough to notice but just to be safe rather than the drops getting on the vinyl plank I keep the trash can under the pump.
  • the LVP flooring has had to endure tons of hiking trips and rainy days. A few spots have noticeable seam movement or wear. They still look great from distance but up close they're not pristine. None of the planks are coming up or shifting though so it's still a healthy and easy to clean floor!
  • one of the LED ceiling lights will go out (can send photo). I think it must be an electrical connection right at the light but I'm not familiar with electrical work. Sometimes it is on and sometimes it is not. It doesn't flicker thankfully.
  • few tiny rust spots on exterior (can send photo). Cosmetic and surface issue only and I have occasionally touched them up with paint.
  • Outlet by dinette does not currently work. Previous owner bought the parts to fix but I do not know how and we never needed it.
  • Driver side window roll down button is broken. It works but it is finicky. The window roll down itself is fine. Just the button.
  • small paint cracking where rear exterior ladder is drilled into the door.
  • sliding window screen is beginning to tear in one corner (can send photo)
  • one rear reflector was broken and removed (can send photo)
SOME FINAL NOTES:
  • The diesel heater works VERY WELL and is an amazing little unit. The van is insulated so it holds heat very well. With the curtains drawn and running the diesel heater it gets TOASTY in there quickly!
  • The van drives very smoothly and does have cruise control to keep things easy on long stretches.
  • it drives very comfortably at or under 75mph. It can certainly hit higher mph as I often did to pass slow moving traffic but it rides smoothly and still quiet and low ish rpms at under 75mph.
SUMMARY:
This van was a part of some amazing memories for my wife and I. We loved driving it, living in it, taking pictures of it, and telling all of our friends about it to make them jealous! We visited probably over 20 national parks and more than that in state parks and public lands.
If you any questions at all do not hesitate to dm me! We are based in coastal Delaware and I would be willing to drive it to you depending on the distance and agreement/interest on a sale.
We're about 1.5 hours from BWI and DC area airports if you live in another area and wish to fly out. I would be willing to meet you near the metro areas if necessary as I have friends who live there.
Thanks so much for looking and I wish you the best on your van shopping journey!
submitted by BeefosaurusRekt to vandwellermarketplace [link] [comments]

2023.05.24 07:22 hatemythesis How many miles to replace brakes on 2018 Nissan Leaf?

How many miles to replace brakes on 2018 Nissan Leaf?
Last year (4years of owning a 2018 leaf) I went to my Nissan dealership for a checkup, and they told me that my brakes were yellow and would need replacement soon. Also that I had to replace brake fluid. It was a surprise to me because I used one pedal driving for the life of the vehicle, only breaking in emergencies. I currently have about 17k (16,700) miles on the vehicle and my brakes feel really weak (I have to press pretty hard to brake). I'm about due for a checkup and was going to ask to replace the brakes. I've been searching online and everywhere is says that these cars (leafs) should be getting way more in lifetime on the brakes, like in the 50-100k+ miles. Is this true? When have you guys needed to replace your brakes on your leafs? I drive infrequently, mostly 35-50mph around the city. Also after my checkup, fluid replacement and tire rotation, after leaving the dealership my brakes felt way looser than before. I thought my mind was playing tricks on me because I was suddenly paying attention to the brakes. Before last checkup whenever I used my brakes they always felt like I could just gently press them and they would sufficiently brake. My family member told me that if I was really low on the brakes, they would make a sound, but there is no sound while braking. At this point I'm wondering if I'm being scammed by the dealership since this stuff is not under warranty. I've had issues with this dealership before with them giving me regular plates instead of EL, making mistakes on my registration(wrong letter in vin) and contract(asking me to resign a contract a week later because there was a mistake) (in the past I shelved everything under - people can make mistakes- because things got fixed for mostly free/my time). All this has stacked up however and I'm wondering if something is going on. Is it possible to loosen the breaks so they feel used? Is there a way for me to just visually inspect them myself? Ive attached part of an image of the multipoint inspection from last year that I received from my dealership.
submitted by hatemythesis to leaf [link] [comments]

2023.05.22 19:10 nukleabomb Vehicles with Overlanding parts coming in tomorrow's update:

Vehicles with Overlanding parts coming in tomorrow's update: submitted by nukleabomb to ForzaHorizon [link] [comments]

2023.05.21 01:36 1quirky1 Replacing the wife's grocery getter

Background:
My wife's car was totaled. We occasionally tow a 2,000-LB trailer. We had a 2003 Durango 4.7L V8 that did okay. Being a Dodge it needed a lot of my work to keep it going.
In 2018 we replaced the Durango with a 2015 $48,500 Porsche Cayenne Diesel 3.0 V6 VW TDI with 48k on the odometer. I know that's a big jump. The used Cayenne was less expensive, had all the options, and had a better warranty than a new Durango Citadel. We didn't miss the third row seat.
We loved that Cayenne. It towed that trailer like it wasn't there. We didn't care about the Volkswagen Touareg diesel in a "Poorsche" body hate. That Cayenne gave us zero problems for five years until a month ago when some clown hit it and totaled it. I really wish they would have fixed it. :( Insurance gave us $44,500 for it. I would be happy if having only $4k of depreciation didn't come with having to replace it in today's market.
Our search:
We were spoiled by the Cayenne. I can't find a replacement diesel Cayenne with all the options. The used market doesn't have any good ones.
Our budget is higher than the $44k payout because pandemic and inflation - Max $65k maybe $70k if we find something we really like. We're looking at well-optioned used luxury mid-size SUVs or new mid-size SUVs with all the options.
We run our cars into the ground. We are not excited about this because we're likely getting a pandemic/inflation downgrade at a higher cost.
Must haves:
Preferences:
Initial short list because we must start somewhere:
Initial no-go list because we must start somewhere - biases and prejudices ahead - let me know if I'm being unfair and limiting myself:
submitted by 1quirky1 to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]

2023.05.19 18:26 JWHogDogs Low voltage on 2018 Nissan Titan 5.0 cummins

My Titan drive home just fine, I shut it off then when to start it about an hour later and I had nothing, there’s very low power in the cab, just enough for the horn to make a little noise, everything has power just not a lot. My batteries and grounding are good, any other advice
submitted by JWHogDogs to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.18 19:46 cecilbdementd Drop 6k to fix a car or put it towards a new one?

Found out the transmission in my 2015 Nissan Sentra is kaput & have to spend $6k to get it replaced. It has 118k miles on it, but has new-ish tires & battery. It has a couple other issues, the sun visors are broken off & the AC is shitty, but otherwise I love this car. I got it in 2018 with 35k miles on it, so in 5 years i’ve put 83k miles on it. I know eventually I will have to buy a new car. With any luck if I got my car fixed I would have another 3-5 years with it, but of course that is no guarantee. I am about to have my first rent payment & am hesitant about starting a car payment & a rent payment around the same time. The cars in my price range all have similar mileage to my car, which is another concern.
Just looking for some advice if it is smarter to put the $6k towards a new car or use it to replace my transmission. Any advice is appreciated, thank you so so much!!
edit a new transmission has a year-long warranty
submitted by cecilbdementd to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.17 21:00 PCrogs1 CVT transmission replace at 80k miles

The Nissan dealership just got back to me about my Nissans transmission after I brought it in for juddering at low speeds.
The diagnostic revealed code P17F2 CVT Judder.
They quoted me at 5.4K USD to fix. (Whole new transmission)
I asked about warranties and nothing applied.
I am looking for any advice on how to proceed or any other work around fixes to this issue. The car is otherwise in perfect condition and the engine light wasn’t even on when I brought it in. The CVT is just annoying to live with cause I am drive in traffic a lot.
EDIT: Car is 2018 Nissan Altima SR
TIA
submitted by PCrogs1 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.17 00:42 Ok-Protection9924 Contractor only use rams

Any truck past 2018 I will only buy rams or Nissans. I have an 18 F150 with 100k miles it’s on its third trans. I have a Chevy it’s on its second also 18. I have 4 dodge rams and my personal 2500 after 100k miles only has had to have one diesel injector changed. Nothing made by dodge has has a single issue pre maturely. You guys picked it right. Sorry been auto maintenance hell this week, but go dodge for making a decent truck.
submitted by Ok-Protection9924 to ram_trucks [link] [comments]

2023.05.16 02:00 acousticado 2018 Nissan Titan misfire and power surging

Hey all - I’ve got a 2018 Titan with about 120k miles on it and I’m starting to have issues. I’m at the point that I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth getting repairs done, or if I should start looking to trade in since the blue book value is a few grand more than what I owe currently.
Two main issues that I’m having are:
  1. it’s always shifted hard in 1st and 2nd gear, but for the past few weeks around 20-40mph (I think 3rd-5th gear) it’s acting like it gets stuck. Unless I’m accelerating hard, the rpm’s start fluttering by about 200 and I can feel the power sort of surging. Itll refuse to shift until I give it some extra gas or coast for a few. Definitely worse when it’s cold, but still there after it warms up and is usually even worse when going up a hill.
2 - I’ve had two times in the past two weeks (happened again today) where I’ve going to start it up and it misfires pretty badly. You can hear the misfire and the entire truck starts shaking. The dash lights freak out a bit and it doesnt want to turn back off. Today I had to hit the push button like 10 times before it would turn off.
submitted by acousticado to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.05.15 17:19 ScrambledNoggin 2016 Diesel Engine, transmission issues

I bought a used 2016 diesel Titan XD in 2018. In the past few months I’ve been having issues with the transmission not shifting out of first gear. I have to pull over, shut down the engine and let it sit a minute or two, and then after it starts back up it’s fine. I’ve been to my Nissan dealer twice, and they say they “can’t replicate the problem”. Any suggestions?
submitted by ScrambledNoggin to NissanTitan [link] [comments]

2023.05.12 19:03 dotMJEG WRX STi ReadMe!/ FAQ/ Starter Guide

PLEASE SIGN UP FOR THE RPM ACT VIA SEMA TO PROTECT OUR HOBBY AND PASTTIME

A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
This thread text will contain a list of FAQs and tips/ tricks useful to any new or perspective buyer of a WRX STi. Current owners, PLEASE feel free to post some tricks, tips, or experiences you feel relevant below. Eventually, I will gather together materials for a /WRXSTi wiki. I will be adding information to this thread as I can. I should say upfront that this is to be taken as a guide. The intention is to display objective information that on the whole does not come from my personal knowledge, but rather what I have found to be reliable, trustworthy, and consistent information presented to me by various dealers, mechanic/ performance shops, internet forums, online groups, and real world experience. REGARDING WARRANTIES you must consult your local provider of said warranty service, this varies wildly from place to place be it law or just how that dealer chooses to work, and I cannot promise for any one single point or idea what will be considered- YMMV
We get a lot of potential buyers and posts asking questions such as "how does this look" and "what should I be looking for?" To limit the impact of these questions that do not pertain to the majority of owners, we will be directing all such inquiries to this stickied thread. As such, all questions or inquiries of new and perspective owners will only be allowed here, versus top-level of this forum. To some, this may seem less than ideal, however information on these cars is PLENTIFUL, almost everything has been said or done before and video'd up twice for every year and model of the STi. A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
WRX vs STi
STi over WRX:
What to look for in buying a USED STi
User ALIN of IgotaSTi.com's "Checklist of What to look for in buying a used STi"

New Owners FAQ and Advice

NASOIC MASTER FAQ and Guide- contained within is just about every possible topic and issue you could have with these platforms. The following may include repetitive information.
Without further adieu, welcome to the wonderful world of the WRX STi. Subaru Technica International's real-world name stake, who is the performance/ racing arm of Subaru Corp. most well known for their Rally 'legacy'. Speaking of rally, no you did not just buy an actual ready-to-rock rally car. You bought a performance street sports car that has many features that are very well suited to loose surface driving. That being said, these cars stock are missing TONS of modifications in order for your car to even be remotely prepared to do any even mild off roading. Namely supsension, brakes, wheels, and tires- and that's just to get off road and over bumps.

Manual Transmission FAQ and First time Owner info

IF YOU ARE NEW TO MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, PLEASE READ AND WATCH ALL OF THE FOLLOWING CONTENT. My 2016 is my first manual car. I used the following videos (in addition to a few IRL lessons with friends) and I had a significantly easier time learning and getting comfortable driving a manual. There are LOTS of little things you need to know about driving a manual transmission, especially with turbo-charged engine platforms.
It would massively behoove any new manual transmission driver to watch all of the following videos at least once. I must have watched each twice, and understanding all of the facets and niggles was very beneficial to me learning to drive one and drive one well. It will also help you take good care of your car and drivetrain, as well as very important safety tips.

FIRST, WATCH THIS VIDEO, Engineering Explained's 5 Things to Never do in a Manual AND THIS VIDEO on what never to do in a turbo car there is also this video.

PARKING- ALWAYS leave car in 1st gear and engage emergency break when parking. This is STATED in the manual from Subaru themselves. When parking on a hill, turn the wheels into the curb so that if all brake/ resistance lets go of the car, it will roll into the curb/ sidewalk, and not out into the street.
Learning to Drive a Manual Series:
Matt Farah has a great series of videos on how to drive a Manual for first time users:
Engineering Explained ALSO has great videos on the same and some more specific subjects:
2015 WRX and STi NASIOC Thread of Epic Knowledge
The Tool Kit
Metric everything.
  • Trunk kit and On-the-go:
In my 2016 STi, I have a small tool roll that contains all of the tools necessary for most standard maintenance and general access/ troubleshooting in most breakdowns. From this kit I can do a full oil change, access nearly everything in the engine, install gauges, and generally pull apart the majority of the car.
Here is it all layed out.
Listed here: (L to R) Multi-head screwdriver, needle-nose vise-wrench, medium adjust-wrench, oil filter wrench, monkey wrench, scissors, collapsing breaker bar, gearwrench ratcheting wrenches( 19/ 17/ 15/ 14/ 13/ 12/ 11/ 10/ 8mm), small pry bar, small adjustable wrench.
Lower Right- Lug nut key, 1/2" drive bits- 10mm, 14mm long, 14mm, 12mm long, 19mm. Should have a 10 and 11 too. A bunch of allen keys (mostly dependant on your added parts but always useful) and 1/2 drive wrench.
I also have rescue tape, assorted lg/ md/ sm hose clamps, sm and lg heavy duty zip ties, gorilla tape, spare fuses, electrical tape, and a few spare auto-zone lug nuts in this kit not pictured. I also need to add back my wire cutters!

Break-in Period for New Cars/ less than 1000 miles on the block

PLEASE READ YOUR MANUAL. EACH YEAR MAY DIFFER SLIGHTLY, BEST PRACTICES FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR CAN ONLY BE ASCERTAINED BY YOU SPECIFICALLY.
General Wisdom:
First 1000 miles: Keep below 4000 RPM, NO full throttle, Stay out of too much boost. Change oil at 1000 miles. Vary your throttle position and try not to cruise too long at one RPM.
1000-2000 miles: You can use full throttle, avoid red-lining/ launching until at least 2000 miles. I personally would continue to vary throttle position and RPM speeds, especially now at higher RPMs (the car does like to be above 3K RPM if you are hammering it)
Change oil at 3000 miles.
Some say to avoid prolonged cold idling, and to drive very gently until engine oil is warm (~175F) which takes about 6-8 minutes in warm weather, and 12-18 minutes. I typically wait 2 or 3 minutes just to let the oil warm a bit and get moving nice and calmly until everything is totally warm. I still do this at 100k miles.

OIL

When in doubt, stay OEM. Subaru's OEM oil runs great through the stock STI motor. STi themselves recommend Motul Xcess 8100 5W40 (gen 2 as of 2021) for performance use, it's in the manual even!
This is perhaps the most important part of ownership, and one of the most common questions and topics especially for new owners. Before I dive into words, some quick points:
  • Check your oil every 1000 miles. The average EJ257 eats a little oil every 1K, best to keep a spare thing of oil handy.
  • Change your oil every 3000 miles. The stock motor takes 4.5 qts. It is best to buy at least and extra quart to have on hand- but really you should have enough oil for 2-3 changes. These are cars that require you to be preventative and that costs.
  • Use OEM Subaru Oil Filters- the blue ones. You can get these on Amazon.
  • Remember to change your oil-plug crush washer! The beveled side towards the oil pan.
  • 5w30 OEM Subaru oil works great, my 2016 loves it and runs great on it.
  • 5w40 Oil is also very common to run in these cars. The most popular two brands would be Motul Xcess 8100 and Shell Rotella 5w40 (yes, the 'diesel truck' one').
  • DO NOT USE MOBILE ONE OIL. For whatever reason, these engines do not like this oil. Perhaps it is too thin.
  • DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOUR OIL PLUG. Once it gets tight with your regular wrench, just make sure it is nice and snug and then add your oil.
These cars are extremely sensitive to oil-related issues. Running your car on too little oil, or going too long between changes and checking, is the fast-lane to a bricked motor. An Air-Oil Separator is highly recommended, see your mechanic for best recommendations. BrenTuning has recommended to me the IAG Competition AOS.
A new oil pickup and baffle plate is also highly recommended. Killer B offers excellent products as well as larger oil pans. The oil pickup in Subaru engines is braised together- which is just basically a shitty friction weld. When these break, your engine stops getting oil. The moment that happens, RIP.

Wheels and Tires

Wheels
  • Quick note before we begin, the spare/ donut wheel can ONLY go on the back axle. If you have lost a front tire, you must swap the appropriate side-rear wheel for the front, and mount the spare/ donut on the back axle. Otherwise you will need a new brake caliper too.
Great Tire Comparison Site for the latest and greatest in whatever category
New, these cars almost always come with Summe Performance tires- these WILL NOT WORK in conditions consistently below 40 degrees, and especially not on snow or ice. If you live in an area, or encounter conditions that are for more than half the day below 40F/ 3C, or consistently gets yearly ice/ snow, you NEED winter tires, or at very very least 'all seasons'.
Wheels and Tires seems daunting, but is really quite easy. You need to know Bolt Pattern, Wheel diameter, wheel width, wheel offset. Once you have these, you can then go to picking a tire. Tires are coded and these numbers are how you will pick a tire size.
Different year STis will require different wheels and tires based on lug pattern, brake size requirements, and so on, so it's very important you work specifically according to your Model Year (MY) and take into consideration any upgrades (like larger brakes).
Master Thread on NASIOC of WRX/ STi OEM wheel sizes
Most STis, especially the current models, use 5x 114.3 Bolt Pattern for the lug nuts. (Prior to 2005, they used 5x 100) The STi also requires a rather significant offset and it is very important to keep this number in-line or as close as possible to OEM. Having a massively different offset can increase wear and tear on components of the car like the differentials and AWD system (which is what makes this a particularly big issue). This is also why wheel spacers are generally a terrrible idea. Working against your cars specs can also create uneven tire wear, which is no fun when you are averaging $200/ tire.
Basics for buying a winter tire:
  • Thinner is better- this gives you higher surface pressure allowing you to cut through snow to find traction. A thinner wheel/ tire setup is frequently a good direction to go.
  • Less rim, more tire- you want a good amount of sidewall on your winter setup, as much as can be allowed in the very small space between minimum wheel diameter to cover brakes (18" on 2018+ STis) but thin enough to not scrape/ rub your sidewalls.
  • SPEED- a lot of winter tires are NOT rated for speeds above 100mph. Please pay careful attention to your winter tires speed rating! There are now "Winter Performance" tires that are aimed more at the sports-car world that give up minimal traits in winter conditions, for significant gains in terms of driving feel/ speed ability.
Good tires: Currently, Nokian and Michelin make the best winte snow tires. Nokian has the Hakkapletta R2s, and Michelin the X-ice 3s. These are both on the more expensive side, but are incredibly high quality tires. (I use Michelins and I love them, quieter than the OEM summer Dunlops). Blizzak WS70/ WS80/ WS90 are also popular due to their often cheaper price, but still offer Top-5 performance especially when it comes to deep snow.
AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR COMBINATION WILL WORK IS TIRERACK.COM- enter your vehicle and wheel/ tire size to find easy matches for whatever you are looking for.
EX.
For my 2016 STi, with stock brakes I chose:
  • 2006 OEM STi BBS wheels, 17"x 8", 5x114.3 bolt pattern, +53 offset.
  • Michelin X-ice3s, 255/45 R17 (I may need to double check this)

Brakes

Your exact specs for brakes are dependent on model year. Your wheels may also play a roll in what brakes you can and cannot use- and the inverse may also be true. What is largely the same is that OEM they are all Brembo setups, and are by-and-large extremely easy to access and change, particularly the pads. Stoptech, Hawk, and Mutegi are all excellent and well-trusted brands for brake pads and calipers at reasonable cost.
Flat Irons Tuning has a pretty solid comprehensive breakdown of break upgrade paths.
For the VA series, the torque specs of the front caliper bolts is listed around 114lbs- however this is a translation error, and should be listed at 80lbs. That being said, many still report breaking bolts anywhere past 50. A torque spec was released by a semi-official source that stated with anti-sieze applied, the front caliper bolts can be torqued to 60ft-lbs and the rear caliper bolts to 45ft-lbs. YMMV. I have had success merely making them sufficiently hand tight. They are easy enough to check and thus far I have had no problems.
Having done the full brakes on my car, I cannot recommend enough the first chance you get accessing the two caliper bolts on each wheel (only two bolts holding the brake system on the hub) and putting anti-seize on there. It is extremely common to crack one of the bolts when changing your rotors, so when you do make sure you have at least 1 spare of each size bolt you will be working with (model year dependent). 19mm Front 17mm rear in my MY2016 STi. Caliper bolts can be be hand tightened and I would apply a good deal of force, I do not know the specific torque spec but I applied around what I would figure I applied to the lug nuts- enough force to make sure they ain't moving but not so much that you fuck the parts or threads.

The Clutch

While slightly less so today, the STi has always been what can be described as a "Raw" feeling car. It's very mechanical, you feel apart of the machine, and you are greatly rewarded for your success as you are punished for any shortcomings. This isn't a massively difficult car to drive. It's probably smack in the middle of the road for "learning a manual sports car".
One of the tricky spots, especially for new owners, is the clutch. It's not the heaviest clutch in the world, but it has a rather high engagement point, decently long travel, and being a heavier all-wheel-drive car it takes a bit more throttle to get everything going smooth. Even in motion, particularly in lower gears (cough 2nd cough) can prove challenging to get right.
Learning the engagement point is the most important thing. Start by getting your car rolling into first without throttle repeatedly. Find a nice flat empty parking lot or side street. Take the handbrake off (and use foot brake if necessary to hold the car) Let the clutch up super slowly, eventually you will feel it start to slowly grab, where you need to intelligently monitor the take up from there to get it rolling. Don't use any throttle, if the car starts to bog or jump push in a tiny bit back, and retry. Once you've mastered getting started without throttle, you will learn the engagement point well, and be able to start working throttle back in.
The second tough spot, well frankly, is 2nd gear. 2nd gear in any manual vehicle will always be the biggest PITA to get into from first because it is the largest jump in gear ratios. Don't expect to do this well at first, and even after 30,000 miles, expect some less than smooth into-2nd shifts. There's no magic RPM or throttle amount to use, but you do need to use a tiny bit of throttle upshifting in these cars.

DCCD- Driver Controlled Center Differential

The DCCD is short for "Driver Controlled Center Differential", and is operated via the thin silver switch between your SI Drive module and center cup-holders. The biggest common misconception is that this controls where the car sends powe torque. What the DCCD actually does is controls the torque distribution bias, which is only useful on loose surfaces.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LOCK YOUR DIFF ON DRY PAVEMENT- this can and will damage your car. Locking the Diff is only for extremely loose and low traction surfaces. IN GENERAL it is best to leave the car in "Auto", even when doing launches, the car knows what to do best. The only time to really start playing with these settings is on gravel or snow/ ice as it's the only time you will really feel much difference. Even then, many professional and semi-pro drivers leave the car in auto.
A quick tip is if you get a flat and have to use a spare, it is advisable to set the DCCD to fully "open" or rearwards.

SI Drive

The other control this car offers is called the "SI drive" and this refers to the large silver knob behind the gear shift. It has 3 modes, "Intelligent, Sport, and Sport Sharp . This simply controls the amount of throttle you are given. Nothing else.
  • Intelligent (I- press in)- "Throttle [opens] more gradually to maximize fuel efficiency, reduce emissions and deliver greater smoothness" it also comes with a little built in "shift advisor" for when it's opportune to shift for best MPG. I would describe it as "mushy throttle."
  • Sport (S- twist left)- Balance between keeping the engine in an efficient state as well as allowing access to full performance and guarantees a more even acceleration.
  • Sport Sharp (S#- twist right)- Most responsive setting, immediately opens up for direct driver input. Many STi drivers use S# and only S#, and many work a quick right-twist of the SI Drive into starting up their car.

Power and Engine Mods

General advice, don't. At least not right away. These cars are very expensive and sensitive to modifications. Assume any power-train modifications require an immediate tune and driving your car with new modifications without a tune even short distances can be extremely dangerous. The most fun mods you can do without risking damage the engine or needing a tune is a catback exhaust. Axelbacks are even simpler and easier! That being said, if you are near a reputable tuning shop with a dyno, might be worth getting your car professionally tuned for stock levels (ie not trying to gain power), this can help smooth the car out and help it run better, expecially if you have gasoline that is not high quality (Cali/ Nevada/ Az) or it's particularly hot, they will be able to dial the car in to run at safer levels/ timing.
EJ 257 BREAKDOWN AND COMMON POINTS OF FAILURE
Serious power-searches require expert opinion and tuning, as well as a sizeable wallet. It is strongly advised to find a recommended pro-tuner in your area, and have them guide you on your build. This ensures a platform that the people in your area are used to dealing with, and likely have many of the potential bugs figured or known. "E-tunes" are an option, and I would recommend BrenTuning based out of MA for this and I have also heard PhatBotti Tuning is a great E-tuner, but there are plenty of other just-as-good options.

Safe and Recommended First Super Fun Mods!

Mods and accessories that are relatively easy to do, add huge fun and enjoyment to the car, and pose no risk of serious damage or warranty voiding shenanigans.
  • Exhaust- AXLEBACK- Portion of the exhaust behind the axle of the car, often just the muffler portion. Most Axlebacks are simply "muffler deletes" whereby they replace the silencers of the OEM exhaust with striaght pipe. IMO this sounds fantastic and isn't too loud while also making you feel like a hotboi/gril. These can also be DIYed easily, and is very cheap.
  • Exhaust- CATBACKS, this is the portion of the exhaust after the downpipe. So you will be replacing the midpipe (that has a resonator), y-pipe, and the axel-back mufflers. [DSport Magazine](https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/2017-subaru-wrx-sti-exhaust-shootout/] has done a fantastic article featuring a bunch of different CATBACK exhaustS on a stock STI. HKS, Borla, Injen, Cobb, Grimmspeed are a few of the popular names tested here. Youtube has the rest.
  • 2018+ FOG LIGHT INSTALLATION

General Maintenance

  • Change your oil regularly every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, and check it every two to four fill-ups. Use the OEM oil filter and oil plug gasket. 5W30 Synthetic oil, or 5W40 in some areas. These engines DO NOT like Mobile One. The OEM oil from Subaru is great, my car loves it. For 5W40, Shell Rotella or Motul XCess 8100 are two of the most common brands.
  • Whenever you are in your engine bay check ALL fluid levels, and look for any weird leaks or any foaming coming out of the oil/ radiator- this can be the sign of a serious problem.
  • Wheels depend on model, current generation STis (from 2007~ onward) use 5x114.3 bolt pattern and require at least 17" rims to clear the brakes. On 2018+ models, some 17" rims may not clear sufficiently and you will need to use 18" rims.
  • As these come standard with Summer Performance tires, you will need a set of winter tires if it is common to drop below 40 degrees at points throughout the year. Easiest path is to go to TireRack.com, enter in your car information, and it will automatically pull up suitable wheel and tire options for you. Nokian R2s and Michelin X-Ice3s are the top winter tires, however there are also performance winter tires in cases like near-Boston-me where we get lots of cold and snow, but it is mostly dealt with quickly to dry pavement.
  • The Power Steering in most STi's is a Hydraulic system. This is key to the way the car feels and drives. Hydraulic systems love to leak, and if you ever notice you are low on Power Steering, best to start looking for a leak. You can top off your power steering fluid using any high quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid) available at any auto-store.
  • I highly recommend removing the caliper bolts on any new STi and adding dobs of anti-size (Permatex) to them to prevent the bolts from breaking off in the calipers down the road when you need to change rotors.

Quick/ Interior Upgrades

  • There is often an annoying noise that comes from the AC compressor fan beneath the glove box in the passenger footwell. This can be remedied using a Crosstrek part/ cover panel. Here's a link to what Subispeed offers to fix this, it may be available elsewhere.
  • An Axleback exhaust/ muffler delete is a lot of fun, easy, and a great way to get a little more noise out of your car. They can be had for as little as $150~ (I got mine used for like $80) and really does help to scratch some of the "I NEED MODS NAO" itch.

Everything Accessport

Accessport Knock Monitoring
NOTE: This section will be purely about stock engine monitoring on the Accessport in particular as it relates to Feedback Knock Learning, and DAM. This section is NOT about tuning on an Accessport.
COBB Tuning's Accessport is probably one of the most popular initial additions to an STi. I would subjectively say it is also probably one of the most important for monitoring your cars health. The Accessport, when boiled down, effectively is a monitoring device to allow you to see more details about your engine's performance, standings, and ECU settings.
USED ACCESSPORT WARNING: Every Accessport, once "mated" to a car, is permanently attached to the ECU of that particular vehicle, and must be unmated WITH THAT VEHICLE in order to be used with a new vehicle.
Before I dive deeper myself, here is a direct link to COBB's page on Acccessport Feedback/ Knock monitoring. They do a great job explaining it in basic, but accurate terms.
The TL;DR is:
  • The 3 most important figures for you to monitor on your Accessport would be first and foremost DAM (Dynamic Advantage Multiplier), Fine Knock Learn, and Feedback Knock. Fourth-most would probably be AF ratio.
  • DAM The most important display to monitor in your STI is the DAM. The TL;DR of DAM is that you always want a DAM of 1. If your DAM drops below 1, this may be the sign of a number of issues but isn't necessarily a massive problem- read COBBs page for more. Sometimes this can be a result of bad gas and can be fixed with a change of tuning (detuing from a 93 tune to a 91 tune on 93 pump gas for example). When your DAM is less than 1, you are seeing how much timing the computer is allowing the engine to run.
  • Fine Knock Learn - this is essentially your CPU having learned from past perceived knock events and applying the appropriate timing correction at a given time. Seeing ~-2.5 degrees of correction is normal, and not a specific sign of concern. Watch for: FKL -2.8 or worse during WOT, -1.4 or worse during large portions of a WOT run, or -4.2 or worse at low throttle/ cruising speeds.
  • Feedback Knock Correction- this is "live" version of Fine Knock Learn, showing real-time corrections applied to engine mapping in response to percieved noise. Watch for FKC of -4.2 or worse at normal driving/ cruising, FKC of -1.4 in the middle of a WOT run that is consistent from run to run, and/or FKC or -2.8 or worse WOT when NOT mashing throttle.
  • Knock Sums/ Counts- Honestly, don't bother using these and scaring yourself, the AP/ Computer will take almost any sound significant enough to seem like knock to be knock- this includes regular acceleration/ RPM noises and hitting potholes. These values are only relevant under specific conditions, and otherwise should be ignored. Just for kicks I have mine Knock Sum for Cyl 4 on the past few days, and I get about "120 knocks" every hour. My car does not have anything wrong with it.

The Subaru Anxiety Port Warning:

Many, expecially tuners, refer to the Accessport as the "AnxietyPort" because so many people leave it on, and watch all their "knock events" FBK going to -2.80/0.00 and a lot going on in their FKL like -3.00/0.35. This is NOT reason to pull over and start crying while fumbling to dial your tune mechanic. It's the cars computer doing what it was designed to do. If the car feels fine, chances are it is. Subaru's car computers are extremely sensitive to knock sounds, and I shit you not the right loud music, exhaust note, or pothole can cause the system to think there as a knock event. As long as you don't see numbers that correlate directly to something bad (like FBK constant of -.280/0.00 under WOT or hitting -4.00/o.00 regularly while driving) it's likely to be your car being it's timing happy self.
DAM drops, while imposing, when no FBK is present to a serious degree or repeatable degree, it is likely the car having detected something it didn't like and being SUPER CAREFUL by pulling timing and then relearning the areas little by little which you will see as positive FKL values. DO NOT RESET YOUR CAR OR TUNE WHEN YOUR DAM DROPS. Your car is (more likely) experiencing a false-flag knock event it's being careful of, or you got something like bad gas. If you car feels normal and fine, it almost certainly is. Fill up with trusted 93 premium gas (my go to are official Mobile 1 stations, I've had bad luck with Shell) and drive normally.
Other things that can drop DAM include: weak/ dying battery, faulty alternator, big speakers/ stereo systems, general loud music in stock systems, speedbumps and potholes. You may have also just accelerated poorly or with too much throttle at low RPM. If it's not reoccurring, consistent, or you otherwise would have notices without the AP plugged in- ignore it.

BIG BOI MODS

FAQ

My engine bay makes weird, flappy/ rattling sounds at low RPMs, is this Rod Knock or Piston Slap?
NO. EJs are loud engines, particularly the 257, and particularly the oil PCV valves, which are responsible for a lot of the sound you hear if you are coasting at low speed/ RPMs where they become prevalent.
There is a loud whining sounds when I downshift or start to rev-match, should I be concerned?
NO, probably not, you are almost certainly hearing the synchros in the gear box whirring up to match speeds inside the gearbox assembly.
What oil should I use?
... Subaru OEM or refer to your manual. Motul XC8100
*What oil filter should I use?"
Subaru Blue OEM filters.
Does /X ENGINE PART/ need a tune?
To be safe, assume YES. Especially if it involves the actual powertrain of the engine. The ONLY exception is a catback/ axelback.
Do I have to use 91/ 93?
YES. In fact, most recommend 93 only. If you are in Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington, or a lot of the west coast, where the gas is notoriously bad, be very careful and run the highest octane you can find (up to 93 REGULAR.)
Can I use Ethanol/ Race Gas?
NO. First, your car's engine must be tuned for it. Second, E/ Race gas will eat through and destroy your OEM fuel lines and pump, you will need to upgrade the whole system first.

FACTORY RESETS and TROUBLESHOOTING

I will try to accumulate all of the secret menus here over time for each model year. These can be used to help fix bugs with the very wonky head units, particularly from the 2015-2018 model years, which are loaded with all sorts of inadequacies and bugs.
Other useful resources include:
www.NASIOC.com (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, largest online forum for Impreza WRX/ STi)
NASIOC MASER FAQ and Guide
www.cars101.com (Outstanding resource for detailed technical information on most any modern Subaru (2012+)
www.clubwrx.com
www.IgotaSTi.com
Facebook also has a large number of WRX, STi, and related groups. These include groups for specific parts of the country/ world, specific years, specific models, and so forth.
Previous Thread
Fifth Thread
Fourth Thread
Third Thread
Second Thread
Original Thread
thank you to users SwitchUps, ItselfSurprised02, Fiasko2, ExtraThigg, V1scera, SockeyeSTI, ebihn14, he8c6evd8, Sunburn79 and all other contributors great and small as this continues
submitted by dotMJEG to WRXSTi [link] [comments]

2023.05.12 02:05 2parthuman 2022 F250 burning oil?

Plus below a comparison to my Nissan Titan...
I just recieved a fleet truck with only 16k miles. 6.2 gasser F250 XL. Do these burn oil? Or im just assuming the previous guy that quit/got fired just never changed it... not sure. He hogged it out bad. Equipment grease, mud, concrete caked on every surface. Uphosltery is ruined. Ive been detailing it for a week straight and its still dirty. Chicken bones in the cupholders, rotting food under the seats, paperwork that is supposed to be filed crumpled up and blowing everywhere, several sacks of quickcrete busted open in the bed and solidified into a mass. Ill have to chip that out with a mini jackhammer. Air dam half ripped off, and a flat tire. Its cleaning up pretty nice though. Luckily its pouring right now for the next week that red clay caked to the under carriage needs a long soak. As soon as i have it all cleaned up to my liking, ill probably have to relinquish it if they ever find a new foreman, but for now that is me.
My normal work truck is a 2013 Titan 5.6. The titan is wayyy faster, rides wayyy better even though its lifted and has larger tires, i think the center console is bigger which is a plus for working on my laptop and taking notes and having picnics, better stereo, back seat bigger, but bed slightly smaller. The titan driver seat gives me the worst back ache ever and im actively looking at a way to fix that. Despite being the same dimensions length height and width the Titan feels half the size and is slightly better on gas. The F250 wins on towing capacity, much sturdier seats, and its got aux buttons for stuff like a diesel tender tank. It loses because everyone sees a big slow white F250 so they just cut mw off and pass me like assholes. In the Titan, youre always doing the passing. I also HATE the f250 mirrors a lot. They need to be replaced asap but im not sure with what. For my own safety ill do it out of my own pocket of i have to though. I can see everything with the Titans mirrors so much better.
I tow a little skid steedump trailer around with both trucks just fine. The Titan tows better than youd expect with an extra leaf spring in it.
submitted by 2parthuman to F250 [link] [comments]

2023.05.12 01:41 whenthewindbreathes Getting a mechanic's opinion & inspection for a used is important, even if it's a Toyota/Honda

Inspired by the 'shocking expenses' in this thread: https://www.reddit.com/PersonalFinanceCanada/comments/13efy03/just_calculated_car_expenses_for_a_used_toyota/
Here's what we're doing wrong when recommending a "Honda/Toyota/Subaru from the last 20 years". I work on cars and grew up in a family that owns garages, here's 2.5 easy steps...
1) GET AN INSPECTION: Yes, Toyota/Lexus are generally less problematic but still have some major issues... not to mention that suspension/bearings/exhaust/brakes/etc. that require repair after the 6-7 year mark.
Get the inspection to save yourself from thousands in wear items that need replacement... and I'll probably tell you to avoid the 07-09 4-cylinder Camry as well.
2) BUY SOMETHING FROM THIS LIST
If you have questions about why something was or wasn't recommended, feel free to chat in the comments section.
3) DON'T BUY ANYTHING ON THIS LIST
Honda/Acura to avoid
Toyota/Lexus to avoid
All Subaru, almost anything Nissan.
That said, if you own something on this list and have done well - congratulations! Statistically, there will be some cars of a bad model that haven't been troublesome. Anything on list #3 is there cuz statistically, they're more prone to go bad
submitted by whenthewindbreathes to PersonalFinanceCanada [link] [comments]

2023.05.11 10:21 TerribleSell2997 Finland Electric Vehicle Market to see Huge Growth by 2029

Finland's Electric Vehicle market is estimated to grow at a CAGR of more than 15.0% during the forecast period. The rising need to address future energy requirements is one of the major factors to drive the growth of the market. The EV market is emerging as an integral part of the automotive industry that provides a pathway to achieve a higher level of energy efficiency with a reduced level of pollutant emissions and other greenhouse gases.
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In Finland, the grants given to the purchaser of EV vehicle is anticipated to promote the growth of the EV market in the country. In Finland, the individuals can receive up to $2,200 for new BEVs, as long as the list price of the car does not exceed $54,500. In addition, the Finnish government runs scrapping schemes every couple of years (in 2015, 2017 and 2018, and probably again in the near future) that offer individuals bonuses of up to $2,200 for scrapping old diesel/gasoline vehicles and buying new BEVs/PHEVs. Moreover, the tax benefit provided by the government is further anticipated to promote market growth. In the country, EVs pay the minimum rate (5%) of the CO2 based registration tax. Also, in Finland, fuel taxes have more than doubled the price of diesel, and more than tripled the price of gasoline, making EVs a much more affordable option.
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· Market Coverage
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· Base year- 2022
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· Competitive Landscape- Archer Daniels Midland Co., Ingredion Inc., Kerry Group Plc, Cargill
· Inc., and others
Market Segmentation
Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Vehicle Type
o Commercial Vehicles
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Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Propulsion Technology
o Battery Electric Vehicles
o Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle
Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Battery Type
o NiMH
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o Others
Company Profiles
o Ford Motor Co.
o Jaguar Land Rover
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About Orion Market Research Orion Market Research (OMR) is a market research and consulting company known for its crisp and concise reports. The company is equipped with an experienced team of analysts and consultants. OMR offers quality syndicated research reports, customized research reports, consulting and other research-based services. The company also offer Digital Marketing services through its subsidiary OMR Digital and Software development and Consulting Services through another subsidiary Encanto Technologies.
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submitted by TerribleSell2997 to Nim2908 [link] [comments]

2023.05.11 10:21 TerribleSell2997 Finland Electric Vehicle Market to Witness Astonishing Growth by 2029

Finland's Electric Vehicle market is estimated to grow at a CAGR of more than 15.0% during the forecast period. The rising need to address future energy requirements is one of the major factors to drive the growth of the market. The EV market is emerging as an integral part of the automotive industry that provides a pathway to achieve a higher level of energy efficiency with a reduced level of pollutant emissions and other greenhouse gases.
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In Finland, the grants given to the purchaser of EV vehicle is anticipated to promote the growth of the EV market in the country. In Finland, the individuals can receive up to $2,200 for new BEVs, as long as the list price of the car does not exceed $54,500. In addition, the Finnish government runs scrapping schemes every couple of years (in 2015, 2017 and 2018, and probably again in the near future) that offer individuals bonuses of up to $2,200 for scrapping old diesel/gasoline vehicles and buying new BEVs/PHEVs. Moreover, the tax benefit provided by the government is further anticipated to promote market growth. In the country, EVs pay the minimum rate (5%) of the CO2 based registration tax. Also, in Finland, fuel taxes have more than doubled the price of diesel, and more than tripled the price of gasoline, making EVs a much more affordable option.
full report of Finland Electric Vehicle Market available @ https://www.omrglobal.com/industry-reports/finland-electric-vehicle-market
· Market Coverage
· Market number available for – 2023-2029
· Base year- 2022
· Forecast period- 2023-2029
· Segment Covered- By Source, By Product Type, By Applications
· Competitive Landscape- Archer Daniels Midland Co., Ingredion Inc., Kerry Group Plc, Cargill
· Inc., and others
Market Segmentation
Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Vehicle Type
o Commercial Vehicles
o Passenger Cars
o Two-Wheelers
Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Propulsion Technology
o Battery Electric Vehicles
o Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicle
Finland Electric Vehicle Market by Battery Type
o NiMH
o Li-Ion
o Others
Company Profiles
o Ford Motor Co.
o Jaguar Land Rover
o Kia Motors Corp.
o Mitsubishi Motors Corp.
o Nissan Motor Co.
o Renault Group
o Tesla, Inc.
o Toyota Motor Corp.
o Volkswagen AG
o Volvo Group
The Report Covers
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About Orion Market Research Orion Market Research (OMR) is a market research and consulting company known for its crisp and concise reports. The company is equipped with an experienced team of analysts and consultants. OMR offers quality syndicated research reports, customized research reports, consulting and other research-based services. The company also offer Digital Marketing services through its subsidiary OMR Digital and Software development and Consulting Services through another subsidiary Encanto Technologies.
Media Contact:
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Contact Person: Mr. Anurag Tiwari
Email: [email protected]
Contact no: +91 780-304-0404
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2023.05.10 23:11 nottunugly Rogue CVT Replacement

I am located in Canada in a small city.
My 2018 Nissan Rogue AWD SV with about 140,000 km has a CVT that needs to be replaced. The place I took it, which comes highly recommended, says a new one from Nissan with installation will run about 7500.00 CAD (5600.00 USD), it comes with a one-year warranty. They also said they can use put one together with aftermarket parts for roughly the same cost, but it will have a 3-year warranty+ a mileage warranty. Besides the CVT, we have not had any other major issues.
My questions, if you happen to know are: Is it worth it to have this done or should I trade it in and how much would you expect to get on this trade-in? Which is the better deal? Should I shop around, knowing that the place that contacted me has a very good reputation from local shops that I trust and peers?
Thoughts? Anything helpful is appreciated. Thanks.
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