Fuel pump for 2011 chevy impala

2012 300ie gts not wanting to idle

2023.06.01 03:51 rystis 2012 300ie gts not wanting to idle

So kinda new to modern vespa's. I found a 2012 300ie gts with 3 miles on it 2 months ago. Have only 325 miles on it now. Been running fine, went to a few rally's in Seattle and Portland. Headed for Ameriavespa made a small stop to unload and ride now it doesnt want to sit and idle unless I give it a little throttle. If it stalls it will start right back up, no problem. Does it when it's cold or warmed up. So I'm not sure what it could be? From what I've been reading on some modern vespa websites it could be the fuel pump cause I guess it happens but also I guess if it was it that it wouldnt run or start right back up.
To me from some of the mechanical knowledge I have. If this had a throttle body I would say that's it. But I don't think that it has one (had some trucks that would do the same thing)
The things I have done. New battery New fluids except for brake fluid Check the spark plug and it looks clean. Running ethanol free
submitted by rystis to Vespa [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 01:42 Electronic-Revenue25 Someone help me, my 91 firebird wont idle, it stays on if I flutter the gas though

I've replaced the fuel pump, new gas tank, new fuel sending unit, new fuel injectors, used a fuel injection rebuild kit and cleaning that all out. I really just can't find a reason for it to keep shutting off, my dash says "security" but when I take that fuse out it solved that.
submitted by Electronic-Revenue25 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 01:38 Electronic-Revenue25 I’ve got a question about my 91 firebird

When I start my firebird it shuts off, it will not idle, it’ll stay on if I flutter the gas though. I've replaced the fuel pump, new gas tank, new fuel sending unit, new fuel injectors, used a fuel injection rebuild kit and cleaning that all out. I really just can't find a reason for it to keep shutting off, my dash says "security" but when I take that fuse out it solved that.
submitted by Electronic-Revenue25 to firebird [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 01:30 Frostfangs_Hunger Question about ATM 8 mekanism fusion reactor set up

Hi all, so I'm currently in an ATM 8 server with a couple of my friends and have taken on the role of being the factory/power producer for our little tri state area. I've also recently discovered the infinity hammer, which seems to be the most powerful tech based weapon I can find. But with its need of almost 10 quintilliom joules of power to get it to max power I've run into the new goal of trying to get more power.
So my question is if anyone knows what the ratios of machines/thermal towers etc that are needed to run a straight DT fuel based fusion reactor from mekanism is. I'm thinking of building a reactor turbine combo that pumps power directly into an infinity charger and want it running full time exclusively on pure DT fuel to get the Mac amount of power possible into it. But I don't even know where to begin on planning my setup and space for the ratios necessary for production.
Thanks in advance for any help.
submitted by Frostfangs_Hunger to allthemods [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 00:56 Frostfangs_Hunger Question about ATM 8 fusion reactor set up

Hi all, so I'm currently in an ATM 8 server with a couple of my friends and have taken on the role of being the factory/power producer for our little tri state area. I've also recently discovered the infinity hammer, which seems to be the most powerful tech based weapon I can find. But with its need of almost 10 quintilliom joules of power to get it to max power I've run into the new goal of trying to get more power.
So my question is if anyone knows what the ratios of machines/thermal towers etc that are needed to run a straight DT fuel based fusion reactor from mekanism is. I'm thinking of building a reactor turbine combo that pumps power directly into an infinity charger and want it running full time exclusively on pure DT fuel to get the Mac amount of power possible into it. But I don't even know where to begin on planning my setup and space for the ratios necessary for production.
Thanks in advance for any help.
submitted by Frostfangs_Hunger to feedthebeast [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 00:34 teqqnology Another troubleshooting post, what's happening?

2018 Ruckus with 700 miles. Last summer drove it often, replaced the fuel pump and drove it more before winter storage. Removed it from storage last month and everything seems fine for a week.
Various issue #1 - idling but dying immediately with any throttle
Various issue #2 - Driving full throttle no problem and starts bogging down before dying
Various issue #3 - The electrical system intermittently fails to startup, eg. when I turn the key the fuel pump never clicks as priming and the electric start does nothing. Flip the key on and off a time or two and things may work as expected
I have:
- Taken the carb out to clean and it was incredibly clean to begin with
- Reset the ECU
- Replace the battery, reset ECU again
I'm waiting on the starter solenoid relay to try replacing that and will check fuses also. Some research says it could be a faulty ECU, has anyone had experience with that?
Other possibly pertinent information is that I'm at 9000' and I fill it with 91 ethanol free as I have that already for other toys.
Thanks for any insight!
submitted by teqqnology to HondaRuckus [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 00:34 teqqnology Another troubleshooting post, what's happening?

2018 Ruckus with 700 miles. Last summer drove it often, replaced the fuel pump and drove it more before winter storage. Removed it from storage last month and everything seems fine for a week.
Various issue #1 - idling but dying immediately with any throttle
Various issue #2 - Driving full throttle no problem and starts bogging down before dying
Various issue #3 - The electrical system intermittently fails to startup, eg. when I turn the key the fuel pump never clicks as priming and the electric start does nothing. Flip the key on and off a time or two and things may work as expected

I have:
- Taken the carb out to clean and it was incredibly clean to begin with
- Reset the ECU
- Replace the battery, reset ECU again

I'm waiting on the starter solenoid relay to try replacing that and will check fuses also. Some research says it could be a faulty ECU, has anyone had experience with that?
Other possibly pertinent information is that I'm at 9000' and I fill it with 91 ethanol free as I have that already for other toys.

Thanks for any insight!
submitted by teqqnology to Ruckus [link] [comments]


2023.06.01 00:30 DonMcQueen Help. 1965 Mustang 302. Rough idle. Hard to start.

Help. 1965 Mustang 302. Rough idle. Hard to start.
Hello All, Need a little help on my 302. Vacuum gauge jumping everywhere. I've tried everything. Changed spark plugs and adjusted timing but it's still all over the place. Stalled and was hard to start up again after I rolled down the driveway. I replaced the fuel pump that was ruptured after this video was made but haven't tried to start the car again. I haven't been able to get solid vacuum. Considering buying a new coil for the distributor. Any help or suggestions would be great!
submitted by DonMcQueen to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 23:19 frenchynerd Quest for affordable traditional comfort - 4 choices

After hours of browsing classified ads, trying to search for an affordable and reliable car with plush seats with a minimum number of angles and bulges and non-protruding headrests.
This is what I found: -Buick LaCrosse 2015 125000 km 14500 CAD$. I like that it's more recent. It's a stretch for my budget. I'm concerned about the seats: there seems to be the same awful bulge in the upper part than in my Verano, which is killing my upper back, and the headrests seem protruding.
-Lexus ES 2011 189000 km 12500$. Paging that much for a 12 year old car with almost 200K seems risky, even if they're apparently quite reliable.
-Toyota Venza 2010 150000 km 10500$. Mileage less high than the Lexus, but still a 13 yo car.
-Hyundai Genesis 2010 151000 km 8200$. The least expensive of the four. That model seems more reliable than the ones Hyundai made afterwards, but it's still quite old.
I saw some Ford Fusion and Mazda that were more recent around 12-13000$, but the headrests seem really awful. I test drove a Ford C-Max yesterday, and the headrest was a huge problem, I had neck pain after that short test drive.
As a pointer, what worked for me for comfort in the past: -2012 Subaru Outback. Very comfy, also very unreliable -2012 Hyundai Elantra. Never had any issues apart from the AC condensator. I regret it a lot, but I know a lot of them from those years had engine issues. If it wasn't for that, I would consider getting another one. -2007 Honda Odyssey. It had all kind of issues and fuel mileage was bad, but it was comfortable
submitted by frenchynerd to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 23:07 WhiskeyDabber67 2007.5 2500hd service 4 wheel drive warning and shop is stumped.

I have a 2007.5 2500hd ext cab duramax, recently had a leaky fuel line so I brought it into one of the top diesel shops in the state. Had them replace all the fuel lines, fuel pump, sending unit, sensors and tank straps. Had I back for a week and one morning I went to start it, warmed the glow plus up and when I went to crank it over everything went dead. I’m not very good at turning a wrench but can handle basic repairs and have ran diesels for 18 years, run my own semi truck and owned this truck for 14 years. I’m pretty decent at figuring out what’s wrong with my rigs before getting to a shop as well.
The dash lights, radio and climate controls, head lights etc turned off. The check engine light and glow plug light started flashing, the tach and speedo needles started pulsating and the stock radio disc changer was making a cycling noise. Stopped after a few mins, tried again and the same thing. Waited ten mins and it fired right up. Immediately got a service brake controller warning, service 4 wheel drive warning light. Drove to work and after a couple minutes I noticed the fuel gauge was dead too.
Shop was booked for a week, drove it to work and back and nothing changed. Once the shop had it back they found a rubbed wire and replaced it the first day. That fixed the fuel gauge and the trailer brake warning. They have had it an additional 5 business days and are stumped. Talked to the owner this afternoon and he said they have the truck half tore apart.
From what I know they checked.
-Batteries and battery cables are good -swapped multiple modules and no change -checked fuses and wires -check the transfer case and motor -searched the wiring harness further
He said there’s no communication with the four wheel drive, and there fairly confused. The only thing I can think to ask is if they checked out the actual 4 wheel drive switch on the dash because it has not lights on it at all. Any other ideas on what to have them check would be greatly appreciated.
submitted by WhiskeyDabber67 to Duramax [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 23:03 ItsHugoBrow Downsize to fuel efficient commuter

I currently drive a 2010 Acura Mdx and this thing is costing me an arm and a leg at the pump. I used to only drive like 50 miles a week. I am in the market for a fuel efficient 35+ mpg vehicle since I drive 50 miles each day for work. My budget is in the 16-23k range. I would like car play capabilities but isn’t a dealbreaker necessarily.
submitted by ItsHugoBrow to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 22:46 SamuraiSteve- brake bleed question.

Doing just pads on front end of a 2011 Toyota Corolla and a 2014 Chevy Cruze.
Since I'm only doing the front end, would the back brakes need to be bled on either one of the cars? Or, are they independent from the rear?
Thanks for any insight. I've tried Google but that can sometimes be a rabbit hole.
submitted by SamuraiSteve- to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 22:21 koraxel Rough idle on 2006 Saab 9-5 when at temperature

Hello fellow Saab owners!
Wondering if anyone can help me out with a problem on my 2006 9-5. The car starts fine, and runs well till it comes up to temperature, at which point, it starts to rough idle till it dies. This happens in park and neutral so I haven't driven the car on the road since it was taken off for some over the winter maintenance.

I replaced the following as part of my winter maintenance:
  1. Fuel pump (to fix the fuel gauge reading problem)
  2. Water pump (to replace a leak in the pump)
  3. Crankshaft sensor (replaced with new Bosch, but when I ohmed the new one it seemed like the resistance was high to me)
  4. Fuel rail (it was leaking)

I also did plugs (gapped to 0.9mm) and a new DIC (this might have been a bad investment lol). I've checked and replaced all the vacuum lines with silicone, replaced the brake booster vacuum line as it broke.

No CEL or codes either (except the random misfire codes when it dies)

Any ideas? Super eager to get her back on the road and enjoy the summer!

Thanks!
submitted by koraxel to saab [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:23 LivingCharacter311 Heat Pump as sole heat source

Hey Heatpumps, Am I going to be sorry if I don't put in another hybrid system? Are new heat heat pumps able to keep up with extreme cold spells? On a heating climate zone map in the USA, I'm in a zone 5. They recommend 50 or 60 BTU per square foot.

My current heatpump is tied into a gas furnace, what I'll call a hybrid system. It's from 1983 and the compressor died so I'm thinking about replacements.
I've had quotes for a new hybrid system (brand new heat pump and new gas furnace) and a quote for a stand alone heat pump. The prices are comparable (25K) however with incentives from the utility company, the stand alone heat pump will be 5K cheaper (about 20% less). Besides the difference of having two potential fuel sources (Elec and gas) with the hybrid system, I'm concerned about a ONLY Elec heat pump system efficiency. The sales guy said it's efficient down to 0 degrees Fahrenheit (any colder and it activates a super charged Elec coil which will supplement). In my area we could spend a couple days a year that cold....my question: Will a heat pump rated for 0 degree keep the house warm if the temp stays that cold for days...or will we just be slowing dropping inside temperature until the heat pump is "relived" by warmer temps? Assume the insulation is good and air flow is adequate and please assume the electric source is going to be reliable. (big assumption I know)

Thank you for any insights, particularly if you have a heat pump and only a heat pump as your main heat source in a cold climate.



Space to heat is approx :1600 sq ft
Approx. output of heat pump only unit: 90,000 BTU (45,000 of which is heat)

The heat pump only unit:
Condenser Model Number: EODA18H-4860
Tonnage: 3
Coil Model Number: EAHATN-36
SEER: 20
AHRI Number: 202110529
HSPF: 10
Thermostat: Ecobee ‎EB-STATE3LT-02
submitted by LivingCharacter311 to heatpumps [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:22 Jay-the-Barbarian Will no oil cause an engine to not start, even if nothing is seized?

I’ve got an ‘87 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2 L carbed motor, 300k miles. I had to replace the timing chain and gears, but couldn’t get it started after that. Also replaced the distributor, rotor, cap, and plugs to eliminate those as problems. We visually made sure the #1 piston was at the top of its stroke, the valves were closed by feeling that the lifters were down on that side, and the rotor was pointed to the right plug wire under the cap. All this just verified we had the timing marks on the gears lined up correctly.
After messing with it for days, redoing everything mentioned above, we pulled the valve cover. No oil squirting out, but everything’s moving as it should, pistons go up and down, valves open and close. Compression is good (150/150/160/155/150/150).
I understand that not getting oil up there is a huge problem, but as long as everything else seems to be working, is there a reason it won’t start?
Fuel/aispark check: mechanical fuel pump works, we can squirt gas by pushing the throttle. Also sprayed in carb cleaner in case the older gas needs a little boost. Carb’s open on top, no problem getting air. Occasionally getting pops/misfires out the carb, so we’ve got spark and viable gas.
submitted by Jay-the-Barbarian to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:22 Serious_Meringue_966 5SFE Camry No start

Hey, I've been rebuilding a 2001 Camry CE with the fed emissions 2.2l 5sfe and an automatic transmission. This version of the engine has a wasted spark dual coil pack ignition system and the non air assisted, non return line fuel injection system.
I recently replaced the cylinder head after it overheated and seized a few bucket lifters in place. The engine block wasn't resurfaced, but was determined to be flat still. I used a Felpro blue head gasket, a healthy amount of engine assembly lube on bearing surfaces, and flushed and replaced all fluids except for transmission fluid. I replaced all other gaskets, cleaned my air line and manifold, replaced all vacuum hoses, and inspected the wiring harness for obvious damage. I recently tested my high tension wires for proper resistance and they are to spec. I used brand new OEM denso plugs. I tested my fuel pump and inspected my fuses and relays. I rebuilt the starter with new copper contacts and plunger. I bought a new battery with 500cca and finally siphoned out the old gas and replaced it with fresh, ethanol free 90 octane fuel.
Upon trying to crank, it sounds like the engine is turning, but it won't start. I don't think there is combustion, and when I remove my plugs, they are wet with fresh gas. When cleaned off and grounded onto exposed body, they clearly spark outside of the cylinder. What could be happening?
submitted by Serious_Meringue_966 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:10 spaceman757 How f*cked am I?

I have a 2011 CC with ~106k km.
I started getting misfire codes and a random MAF sensor code. So, I replaced the MAF sensor and it seemed okay for a bit but then the misfires started coming back. So, after some research some research, I found that it could sometimes be the PCV, so I swapped it.
Misfires were still present and I noticed a very small amount of smoke, as well (was probably there the whole time, but it was cold out so I didn't think much of it). This led me to swapping out the plugs and ignition coils. Seemed to run fine, but was still getting random misfires and the faint smoke until it warmed up.
So, it finally got to the point where the misfires were causing sputtering to the point of near stalling and it has gone into limp mode a couple of times.
This leads me to today. I swapped out what I thought would be the last/most likely culprit, the high pressure fuel pump. However, when I took the old one off, I noticed that there was oil behind it.
I'm pretty positive that there shouldn't be oil mixed with the fuel, so I'm wondering if I'm completely FUBAR or if this could just be a gasket/seal somewhere that it causing the oil in the fuel pump chamber and the misfires and the car sputtering and going into limp mode.
submitted by spaceman757 to passat [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:01 Glad-Bread6203 04' XC90, project and currently daily driver, paid 300$ for it.

04' XC90, project and currently daily driver, paid 300$ for it.
The originak engine had 340k miles on it, so I got an engine swap for a newer engine with 87k miles on it. That plus new tires plus price of the car cost 4200$. I have racked up a list of parts on the summit racing website, I've already done some things. Since it's turbod, I got the second muffler cut out and had a straight pipe put in, that plus a k&n air filter plus half 93 half 110, I would say it gets around 250hp. Then I found a parts manufacturer for the turbo and other stuff. Their turbo plus 650cc fuel injectors plus getting it tuned, they said should make around 400hp. So I would say with current mods, 450hp. I gotta replace the headlights bc they don't work, wiring issue that's typical in these models, gonna put performance breaks on some time, new suspension, didn't even account for that, the suspension will be around 1500 to 2k, thinking about also putting on a magna flow muffler for the first one to increase speed of the turbo more. Then gonna replace the house speakers at some point as well the center console, that will be around 1500. That way I can play music from my phone. Wanna also replace the fuel pump to be able to put out more, better spark plugs, konig black wheels at some point, but I don't care about looks. Thatl be 1k. A better radiator if I can, it's always done well for my 740s and 940. And if I can, a better throttle body. Can't find silicone coolant hoses anywhere. It's annoying. K&n fuel filter as well. I currently have a k&n air filter. That helps as well. If I can, at some point, ide love to get a bushguard. Also the interior is crap and at some point may be replaced the seats, but I don't care about the interior. I care about making it a sleeper. Also, my mechanic has a Volvo junkyard, he can put a fuel cap on.
submitted by Glad-Bread6203 to VolvoXC90 [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 21:00 EnterpriseSpaghetti A/C not working after replacing resistor

I have a 2012 Chevy Impala and the air stopped working a while back so I replaced the resistor and that fixed it for a little bit. Then the air wouldn’t turn on occasionally and now it’s been not working for several days. My step dad says I need to replace the resistor again but why would that be? Could it be anything else causing this? I just replaced the last one about a month ago.
submitted by EnterpriseSpaghetti to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 20:58 Glad-Bread6203 04' XC90, paid 300$ for it.

04' XC90, paid 300$ for it.
The originak engine had 340k miles on it, so I got an engine swap for a newer engine with 87k miles on it. That plus new tires plus price of the car cost 4200$. I have racked up a list of parts on the summit racing website, I've already done some things. Since it's turbod, I got the second muffler cut out and had a straight pipe put in, that plus a k&n air filter plus half 93 half 110, I would say it gets around 250hp. Then I found a parts manufacturer for the turbo and other stuff. Their turbo plus 650cc fuel injectors plus getting it tuned, they said should make around 400hp. So I would say with current mods, 450hp. I gotta replace the headlights bc they don't work, wiring issue that's typical in these models, gonna put performance breaks on some time, new suspension, didn't even account for that, the suspension will be around 1500 to 2k, thinking about also putting on a magna flow muffler for the first one to increase speed of the turbo more. Then gonna replace the house speakers at some point as well the center console, that will be around 1500. That way I can play music from my phone. Wanna also replace the fuel pump to be able to put out more, better spark plugs, konig black wheels at some point, but I don't care about looks. Thatl be 1k. A better radiator if I can, it's always done well for my 740s and 940. And if I can, a better throttle body. Can't find silicone coolant hoses anywhere. It's annoying. K&n fuel filter as well. I currently have a k&n air filter. That helps as well. If I can, at some point, ide love to get a bushguard. Also the interior is crap and at some point may be replaced the seats, but I don't care about the interior. I care about making it a sleeper. Also, my mechanic has a Volvo junkyard, he can put a fuel cap on.
submitted by Glad-Bread6203 to projectcar [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 20:55 Alfonse215 K2 Diary 6: Sidequests

K2 Diary 6: Sidequests
In the previous episode, I promised to start working on nuclear processing and biomass generation. Therefore, I started with... neither of those things.

Metal 3: This Time It's Personal

I started mining and processing rare metals. This isn't entirely off-topic; nuclear reactors require rare metals for some reason.
Which brings me to an interesting design question. Rare metals.
Why?
In vanilla, iron and copper make sense. They're similar materials in that they both have to be turned into plate. But more things take iron than copper (at least, initially). Plus, iron can become steel, while copper doesn't have a more refined form (LDS doesn't really count, as it incorporates lots of stuff). The two materials are similar but are used differently.
Rare metal is basically copper++: it's like copper except you have to mine it in a special patch. But you also need a liquid to mine it... just like uranium. Unlike uranium however, the liquid you need to mine it is not exactly useful. Oh sure, when you get into lithium production, I'm sure you'll need chlorine by the bucketload (though apparently making lithium from chlorine is catalytic with regard to the chlorine, so...). But at present, chlorine is otherwise useless.
Overall, it feels like K2 is just repeating ideas from vanilla. It's just another kind of plate, except specific to higher-end items. Though I am grateful that there's no nonsense like "rare metal beams" or "rare metal gears".
That being said, the presence of the stuff does create an interesting dynamic with regard to purple and yellow science. Back in vanilla, you could pick either one to research. And while yellow was more resource intensive, both of them only required the same resources you already were using. You might need to tap more patches, but you were tapping the same thing.
In K2, purple and yellow both rely on a new resource that was previously unavailable. But they each require a different new resource. Purple requires U-238 (which also means that there's a much better sink for the stuff than vanilla), which in vanilla was purely a bonus that you could freely skip. Yellow science requires blue circuits which now take rare metals instead of absurd quantities of green circuits (directly). And this is probably why raw metal ore requires a fluid to mine them, the same way uranium does. But of course, they require different fluids.

Ore Washing Sucks and I Hate It

At some point, I researched a thing called "ore washing". And since I was setting up a new mining&refining site, I figured it was worth a look.
The basic idea is that "raw" ore has a 2:1 ratio with plate. However, you can take raw ores and put them through a chemical process which turns them into enriched ores. This transformation is at a 3:2 ratio, but enriched ores are processed into plate at a 1:1 ratio. So it effectively gives you a 50% bonus in how much plate you get from a given amount of mined ore (and with full module 3's in advanced buildings, you can get a better than 1:1 ratio of raw ore to plate).
I admit that it probably wasn't a good idea to start washing with rare metals, since they require an otherwise mostly useless fluid (HCl) that I didn't already have lying around. But wow, was this annoying to set up. It feels like the Factorio equivalent of busywork.
From a design perspective, it effectively justifies slowing you down relative to vanilla. Miners are no faster in K2 than they were in vanilla, and many recipes don't compensate for the 2:1 ore:plate ratio. So basically, you need 2x the miners in K2 for the same stuff as vanilla. This opens up design space for ore washing's 50% bonus without completely breaking the game's resource model.
Regardless, I am not looking forward to redoing my copper, iron, and steel manufacturing for this bonus. Nor am I looking forward to trying to build a direct, train-to-train washing setup for my eventual megabase.
One thing I do find clever about ore washing is that you don't need to constantly introduce water into the system. Dirty water is perfectly reclaimed into regular water, so once you have some water in the system, you can recirculate it indefinitely.
Raw Metals Setup

Nuclear Processing

Well, now that I have rare metals coming in, I can automate a bunch of stuff that doesn't require rare metals. I've been neglecting to automate pumps and other things that require engines. Like locomotives. And if I'm going to do nuclear processing, I'm going to have to get sulfuric acid far away from where it usually gets made. So here's a neat, tidy setup for a bunch of random stuff:
What does spaghetti look like?
And yes, I'm automating nuclear reactor production too, including all of its buildings. When I finally get Kovarex up and running, I'm going for a 2-reactor setup (which ought to be 1GW). So best to be ready for that.
Oh, and it's super hideous to have to shove a gigantic crusher and filtration plant in the middle of my build just to get the quartz I need for heat pipes.
Nuclear Automation
And yes, I realize that copper is really low. That's a "next time" problem.
It is at this point that I realize that trains... don't run on coal anymore. They have their own dedicated fuel type, and my only refinery for that was temporary and I deconstructed it hours ago.
So now I have to build that at my main oil setup. And it's turning into a nightmare of nonsense.
Well, that certainly... exists.
Fiendishly ugly, but I don't have time to fix this. I need to get uranium processing going so I can start building up U-235 to (eventually) feed into Kovarex. And yes, I did push some nests and get biomass up and running. But still, yuck.
I used the same rail blueprints I usually use for my block megabase. They work well enough, despite my base not having been built within that arrangement.So that's how sulfuric acid gets to the mineral patches.
On the plus side, laziness accidentally solved the "uranium ore causes damage now" problem. When I went to set up the mine, I had forgotten to bring miners. But since everything in the area is under a robot network, I just placed blueprints and let the bots do it.
Uranium Processing at Last
But now that I have centrifuges, I can use them to process stuff. And yeah, having four random outputs is in fact terrible. Fortunately, I can funnel the stone to a nearby crusher, while the iron just gets fed to the existing iron furnaces.
So now it's just a slow, steady march to 40 U-235. Whenever I research Kovarex, of course. Given how slowly I seem to be building, I strongly suspect I'll have 120 by the time I get purple science started.

Next Time

https://preview.redd.it/i1vywfx1993b1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=6e268992e81b67c84eaed091f81fe3e9b8d99988
It's time to start tapping into my vast network of resources. The ultimate goal is to automate purple science, which means I need to get some new coppeiron going. I also need to get more electronic components and red circuits. And while I'm there, I may as well build blue circuits, LDS, and more steel.
Fortunately I added 60MW of power generation, so I can do all of this with my shiny new prod-moduled electric furnaces.
But before all of that... I've got to rebuild my oil processing.
submitted by Alfonse215 to factorio [link] [comments]


2023.05.31 20:07 Adorkable8 2009 Ford focus won't start

2009 Ford focus won't start
Ok I have a 2009 ford focus that won't start. I have noone to come look at it for me. So I need suggestions on what and how to figure out the issue. The car randomly died while I was driving it. It has Half a tank of gas. Fuel pump is good I can hear it. The battery is good. The fuel line is good (gas is coming out of it so assume not a clogged) it tries to start if u use a wire from the starter to the battery but refuses to crank. 1 guy said could be the pcm but it was replaced like a year or so ago. Other said could be a sparking issue. I don't have alot of money but I'm willing to get dirty if someone can just point me in the right direction... I don't have alot of tools but I do have basics... jack wrentches and sockets... ect... I justvstarted buying my own tools this year. If u can post like a tutorial to help me step by step that'd be great too. Done some work myself but honestly not a lot.... usually I had help. PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!
submitted by Adorkable8 to Cartalk [link] [comments]