Cox panoramic wifi app

I bought an MGS100. It's the Homekit enabled version, but I don't plant on using Home, rather just want to go through Alexa app.
I follow the setup instructions, but when I select the option to do the non-homekit version, it asks me to go to Settings>Wifi and select the "Meross_MG_xxx" wifi which I do. It then asks me "Add to Home & Wifi" or Cancel.
It won't just connect to the wifi so I can continue setup in the Meross App. I've resetted the Meross, I've reset my Network settings on my iPhone, still the same issues. There was one time I was able to get it connected to the Home app, but it wouldn't do anything.
Any advice?

I recently got CL Fiber installed in a 2-story 1600sqft house. The tech set up a Plume network with the Homepass app.
HERE is a diagram of where the pods are located within the house. I disabled the wifi on my laptop and plugged it into each pod via an ethernet cable. I got the following speeds:
Upstairs primary bedroom (connected to SmartNID via ethernet): 927mbps down / 725mbps up
Upstairs office: 262mbps down / 242mbps up
Downstairs living area: 141mbps down / 122mbps up
Do these speeds seem reasonable, or is there possibly something misconfigured with the mesh network?

This might be a long shot, and I'm not entirely sure if my memory serves me right. Basically, in the past, when playing Minecraft PE (Pocket Edition) with friends, we had to be connected to the same Wi-Fi network.
However, I vaguely recall that Redball had a feature (possibly via Bluetooth) that allowed you to play with a friend without Wi-Fi. If both you and your friend had Redball downloaded, you could connect to each other within the Redball app, with no WIFI, and then switch to Minecraft PE. This way, you could play multiplayer together anywhere without needing a Wi-Fi connection. (As long as your were close together)
Does this sound crazy? Lol

The only thing plugged in is the router and modem ( separate) and a ring camera. Wifi scan with Fing and another app show a device that is intermittently being picked up in the scan. I am in airplane mode on iPhone when doing this. I cannot get MAC address. Any idea what this could be ? There are no computers, printers or anything else. It’s a small apartment.

Just a depressing story for anyone else who cracks their roof glass:
Cracked the top glass on MYLR by getting hit by a rock or debris kicked up by a truck in the highways: there was an impact mark and an 18” crack over the driver’s side rear seat.
My insurance (Progressive) covered the replacement (less our deductible), which was about $1600. My state doesn’t have a service center- we’re one of the states where manufacturer dealerships are prevented by law. So I worked with the nearest SC, about a two and a half hour drive.
Took about a month to get an appointment at the SC on a day that worked for me, but I finally showed up yesterday and used a conference room and their WiFi to do my job (I work remote).
Left for a couple of hours, got a call that my car was ready, and I was instructed to pay in the app, which I did. Got back to the SC, my car was parked in front of the front door, and I got in only to notice a NEW crack over the driver’s seat.
The manager and three technicians came out to see- they seemed genuinely surprised, so I gather this isn’t a common occurrence. The mechanic who installed the glass said there’s a urethane adhesive that takes several days to cure and they couldn’t replace the top glass until that had happened, so I opted not to leave my car there for a week.
I drove home, defeated, and am going to have to drive back over next week.
My wife wants to sell the car at least until we have a service center in our state. I’m really bummed but love the car. I figure this is just a freak set of coincidences, but to her the inconveniences aren’t worth it.
Anyway, FYI for someone else out there who cracks their top glass.

Computer Type: Desktop
GPU: RX 6800XT 16GB
CPU: Intel I7-11700k
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix z590f gaming wifi
BIOS Version: 1202
RAM: 32GB Kingston 3200mhz
PSU: Corsair 650W
Case: NZXT H5 flow
Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 10 Pro 19045
GPU Drivers: Manually installed a month ago without amd apps.
Chipset Drivers: Intel (R) SMBus - 43A3
Background Applications: Steam, Riot Vanguard, Sonic Suite, Wallpaper Engine, Logitech G
Description of Original Problem: When I try to install my GPU drivers I get "error: 176 Not enough space". I have 30 Gb+ on all of my drives expect the one that isnt any of my physical drives that I think appears on anyones computer automatically that is 500Mb in size. No matter what settings I try on the Adrenalin installer it says the same thing.
Troubleshooting: I've tried pretty much everything. Have tried to install it on every drive, have deleted the driver files manually and deepcleaned with a tool that is meant for gpu drivers(cant remember the name since it was several months ago), have tried to download older versions and still it always pops the same error. I've tried fixing this multiple times over the past year but every time the same thing happens and google does not have any new answers. Only thing I can think is causing this is that the software tries to install to the 500Mb fake "drive" even when I choose other drives(mainly the OS drive).

This is probably a painfully simple setting issue, but it's driving me insane.
I have an older Samsung Galaxy S8 phone. Still worked fine, so no point in upgrading. Until a few days ago when it started rejecting all phone calls. Data works, text works, WhatsApp calls work, Google Voice over wifi works. But regular phone calls to my phone number goes straight to voicemail. Occasionally, the phone will actually ring once when it receives a call, but there's no chance to pick up the call. I thought the phone finally died.
My friend has an old S8+ that's not being used. I put my SIM card in the S8+. Calls to my number rings the S8+ without problems. I then transfer files and settings using the Samsung Smart Switch app. Everything goes well...
Now the same problem happens on the S8+.
It's clearly a setting issue, but I don't know where this setting is. The "Do not disturb" setting is off.

Hey all, I'm usually pretty good at sorting pc issues but I'm lost on this. Didn't use my pc for about a week and when I came back to it, the motherboard lit up with rgb but wouldn't switch on, I switched the Power switch header and reset switch header and tried both buttons got nothing. I refunded the case thinking it could be faulty button, new case did the same. Took the cmos battery out and it booted finally. I put the cmos back in, and it still booted but it was very laggy and freezing. New cmos put in now and then I did a fresh Windows install deleting all apps. Now runs smooth but for only half hour max, sometimes only a minute before restarting itself with the cpu light coming on red, the dram light goes orange. From here I have tried removing the cooler and the cpu, cleaning off the paste and reapplying new paste. Still the same. I've tried every ram stick on its own to minimise possibilities. Just lost. Specs listed below:
Intel core i7 13700k Asus prime z790 a wifi Gigabyte rtx 3070 Thermaltake core p3 pro Corsair RM 850w Kingston fury ddr5 ram 4x16gb 2x m.2 1tb Nzxt kraken z73 360mm rad

Hello, am looking for a budget (~100eur or under) camera, I'm located in latvia, so that somewhat limits the selection, but many of the cameras should be available. Here's the requirements:
Wifi
phone app
pan and tilt
night vision
gonna be wall mounted
preferably zones for motion detection, as I don't want passing cars triggering it.
​
Currently I'm looking at a Ezviz H8C at 71eur, but maybe y'all have an overall better camera for about the same price.

Hi all, I am a noobie to this PCBuild world. Just bought my first rig and assembled it myself on April.
Here is my component list: MOBO: MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk- WIFI CPU: Ryzen 7 7700x CPU Cooler: Be quiet shadow rock 3 GPU: Radeon RX 7900XT RAM: Kingston Fury DDR5 5200MT/s 2x16 Memory: WD_Black SM850X NVMe SSD 1TB for system and a Firecuda HDD 4TB for games. PSU: Corsair RM750x Case: Fractal Desing Meshify 2 XL
Everything seems fine while I am gaming or otherwise using the system for several hours (I consider a normal load using Word or internet browsing, and overload while gaming at 4k and 60 fps for the newst titles: jedi: survivor and last of us, for example).
However, while underload (I.e. Spotify and whatsapp are the only apps running) my system suddenly reboots itself. Noticed this because music stopped playing and when I come back to the room PC is rebooting.
I have run some testing, paying attention to CPU fan workload and its behavior when Temps rise. Since I considered overheating to be the most likely reason.
It all seems to work properly, to the best of my knowledge. That is, as soon as CPU temperature hits 65-70°C CPU fan speed up (max RPM +1200) and as soon as Temps go down to 45-50°C, CPU fan also reduces its speed (750 RPM on average).
My additional fan configuration is as follows: I have 3 PMW fans front case intake in auto mode and 3 non PWM fans top case exhaust at full speed all time.
I have been survailing this for about 45 minutes to an hour and no reboot has happend yet. It seems to be toying with my sanity. 😵‍💫
CPU Temps have hit 95°C while rendering shadows for Last Of Us and no reboot happened then but I thought it might be that while underload, fans might not be working properly, which from the above test is not the case.
I am at a loss here. Any other issues that might be triggering the reboot that I should be testing? Please, anything is welcome.
I really wish I could avoid reassemble since I would do it for practical reasons, so as not to leave anything out. However, I would simply do the same as before, which seems pointless from a logical point of view.
Thank you in advance for any input that might shed some light.
Happy gaming and build to y'all.

I am having an issue with my phone. I pay for an unlimited plan. Right after setting up the ACP discount, my data became completely throttled to the point that I no longer have any. Verizon cannot explain it. I basically cannot use any of my apps or even check email except when I am at home on home WIFI.
I rely on several apps to do my job when I am out and about. I need this fixed or to switch providers ASAP. I am losing money not being able to work properly without any data.
Has anyone else experienced this when adding the ACP discount to their account?

I'm not sure anyone can help but my wifi router is not showing up when i try to connect like the name just does not come up and the Wi-Fi connecting menu and it has a red wps light that keeps flashing which I have tried to connect with a WPS app but it still is not work if anyone could help it will be greatly appreciated thank you

I have had nothing but problems with this system. I have the WiFi 5 mesh router upstairs and 2 AC2200’s downstairs. I periodically have issues loading webpages, watching Netflix, it’s like the system just randomly sucks. When it’s messing up, it usually takes several attempts to get into the linksys app because even that won’t load. I did a speed test on two devices, getting 1.5-3 Mbps and 40+ ms latency, but a speed test at the router was 11 ms and 236 Mbps. My house is not that big; I thought the mesh WiFi was a good idea because I added security cameras at the outer edge and they had fair or low connection strength with a standard router. This velop mesh system doesn’t do what it’s supposed to do and it’s so frustrating that the product advertised so much and delivers nothing but frustration. I know it’s capable of doing it, but there is no consistency at all, and it doesn’t seem like linksys has fixed any of it. The limited “QoS” features have to be turned off because they don’t work, the product has inconsistent performance that ranges from mediocre to unacceptable, as in you don’t notice a major performance issue to all of the sudden you can’t even stream a video or load a webpage, and then it resolves with nothing changing, and there is nothing but a rudimentary over simplified configuration utility that gives you nothing but the most basic controls.
This velop system ruined linksys for me.

I got a new phone last week and have been using my old one to solely run the coin app. It's basically doubled the coin I can get in a week with all the additional ads and mining round the clock. Unfortunately I have to send the old phone back as part of my trade in deal.
Is there a cheap device I might be able to get just to run coin? I won't get service for it, just wifi, but if it's cheap enough, it will pay for itself pretty quickly. Anyone have a recommendation?

>**What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.**
Building a pc for my parents who just need a reliable pc that should be able to last for the next 10 or so years (for reference, they're upgrading from a mini pc with an i3-2120T). They need it for work and general use - mostly through the browser and office apps with maybe some *very* light gaming. Onboard audio is a must (assuming thats optional on some mobos idk), Bluetooth would be nice, and wifi is welcome but not necessary. I've had a look for parts myself totaling Au$797 (including windows) that are in stock at my nearest store listed below. Any recommendations or alternatives would be greatly appreciated.
>**What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?**
We're looking around Au$800 but the budget is flexible.
>**When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.**
Next week
>**What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc\)**
Tower and win11 home (looks like I can get it for Au$130)
>**Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?**
Queensland, Australia with the nearest store being MSY (they currently have some sales atm)
>**If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.**
Reusing an old case
>**Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?**
Only memory oc to get full rated speeds
>**Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)**
SSD, iGPU
>**Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?**
Reusing case (full atx, no side window) and no rgb
>**Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?**
Yes, windows 11 home (Au$130)
>**Extra info or particulars:**
PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WCwRZw
CPU: Intel Core i3-12100 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte B660 DS3H AX DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2400 CL16 Memory
Storage: Kingston KC3000 1.024 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
*Note on PSU: its the cheapest 80+ gold psu available and the lowest available wattage is 500w so i figured it would be the best choice (with the added benefit of being modular)

Heya good day!
i've been in the works of making the perfect android dash computer in my car.
and want to make sure most of the stuff is automated under the hood.
i also wanna make sure the device is still usable incase it's been baking into the sun for a while.
i know you can adjust CPU core speed using kernel managers. and they indeed seem to work on my device.
but i want to make a macro that detects if the battery exceeds 50C. and then run a few actions to put the device in a usable but safe state.
it wil engage Darkmode.
lower brightness to 40%.
and limit the big cores to about 40% original clock speeds and the small cores to 50% original clock speeds.
and then if temp reaches 65+c
disable GPS/wifi/celluar
Brightness-25%
big cores to 50% clock speed but disabled half core's. same with the small cores. 50% speed at 50% enabled cores.
would this be possible to do with macrodroid? any app's that work perfectly with macrodroid to control cpu clock's?
thank you in advance for your advice!

I've followed the harman guide & JBL guide.
I've tried connecting via ethernet it does nothing
I've tried through JBL setup app it gets stuck.
I've tried through USB -- it says error
I've tried through the alexa app and scan qr code -- it never finds it
​
Nothing I do will connect this thing. In the JBL app it gets stuck on 'WiFi Setting'
I would very much like to be able to adjust some of the customization options as well as get it updated to the latest firmware. But I cannot figure this thing out.
It sounds great without customizing but it does lose bluetooth connection randomly and i'm hoping that firmware can help. I'm pretty tech savvy and this is driving me bananas.
Maybe the USB directions aren't correct? Do you need to unzip the files or something? Please help I'm losing my marbles here.

Night three and first night outside! Setlist predictions? Bust outs? Debuts?
If you’re there, go check out the lot vendors! Gizz has their own Shakedown Lygon Street!
Poster
Last Night’s Thread
Live Stream: Streamus - WiFi Dependent
Play Guess the Setlist with us! Guess the setlist (lineup) and tally up your score! We will keep a rolling tally for the entire tour and the Top 5 will be listed in future setlist threads.
Leader Board

1. u/relebactam - 17 points
   
2. @dirtysouthdead - 14 points
   
3. u/neitgeist1, u/Acarine-Honeybee & u/Zmrzlina1 tied- 11 points
   

Full Standings
If you have Video/Audio you would like to contribute to the Archive. Please let us know and we would be happy to assist in getting it uploaded.
This verified setlist and all previous shows can be found at kglw.net
Doors: 6:00pm
Openers:
DJ Crenshaw - 6:00pm
Kamikaze Palm Tree - 8:00pm
Set time: ~ 9:00-11:00pm CDT (7:00pm PDT. 6/4 3:00am BST, 12:00pm AEST)
Setlist:
1.